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The Glycine Airman The Chief Purist is a Swiss-made automatic watch that revives the 1956 "The Chief" Airman made for the retailer Türler. It is a purist 24-hour watch: no GMT hand, and the hour hand sweeps the dial once a day, so the bezel and dial read time the aviator way. The 40mm stainless steel case mixes brushed and polished finishes, with sapphire crystal, a bidirectional rotating bezel and a green 24-hour dial on a leather strap. It suits collectors and pilots who want a true 24-hour tool watch rather than a conventional three-hander, and it undercuts most Swiss automatic GMTs on features per dollar, though its 30m water resistance is modest next to dive-style rivals.
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Lowest price we've seen: $905.00 on Nov 12 at Gnomon Watches. Tracked across 1 store since Nov 12.
Owners of the Airman Purist line praise the legible 24-hour dial, the solid case finishing and the value of a Swiss automatic with sapphire. The main complaints are the low water resistance and the adjustment period of reading a 24-hour dial.
The Glycine Vintage The Chief Purist is a Swiss Made automatic men's watch from the Airman line. It is a "purist" edition, so it has no secondary GMT hand. The hour hand completes one full rotation every 24 hours, and the dial uses a 24-hour layout around its outer edge. When the hour hand points down at 6, it is noon.
The 316L stainless steel case has a 40 mm diameter, a 49 mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 12 mm. The tops of the lugs and the bezel are satin-brushed, and the sides of the case are polished. The lugs curve downward. The dial is sunburst green with printed baton indices at even hours and circular indices at odd hours. Triangle indices mark 12 and 6. It has an arrow-head hour hand, a syringe-style minute hand and a white date wheel at 3 with red date numerals. The hands and indices are coated with Swiss Old Radium Super-LumiNova for reading in the dark.
The crown at 3 sets the time and date. The 24-hour bezel is locked by the crown at 4: unscrew it to rotate the bezel, then screw it back down to hold the bezel in place. The boxed sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating. The watch comes on a padded 22 mm brown leather strap with cream stitching and quick-release springbars.
