Best duck breasts

Start with the Hudson Valley moulard. Moulard is the breed restaurant kitchens use for magret: big, thick, well-fatted breasts that sear to crisp skin and rosy meat without drying out. This one is skin-on, large-breasted and the best-rated of the lot, so it's the safest bet for a first proper duck dinner.

• Maple Leaf Farms boneless breast — the everyday pick. Pekin, mild and forgiving, ideal for weeknights or anyone new to cooking duck.
• Fossil Farms Pekin breasts — a four-breast pack for feeding a table, well rated.
• D'Artagnan Muscovy — leaner, beefier flavour for anyone who finds moulard too rich.
• Smoked duck breast — no cooking at all; slice cold for salads and boards.

Whatever you choose, score the skin and start it cold in the pan.